Featured on the Beach Break Surf Camp Blog
As my time in Panama comes to an end, I am doing my best to get in the water as much as possible. This morning, I thought that might require some extra motivation. When I first rolled out of bed and opened my door to check the surf, I was met with a downpour of rain and a gust of wind.
I went over to the restaurant to do some work while I enjoyed my breakfast. As I began writing, I looked out and saw the lineup start to fill with familiar faces. Despite the rain, the surf was picking up quite a bit. Additionally, the rain seemed to have knocked out most of the wind, and glassy conditions were taking shape right in front of me. As I sipped coffee and continued to write, I saw friends take off on wave after wave. I saw the lesson group at the side of the cove catching clean waist high rollers. I saw a number of head high sets rolling through. Finally, I saw too much. I rushed back to my room to grab my board.
After throwing on boardshorts and waxing my board, I opened my door to find that the rain had completely stopped, and the sun was shining. The wind, however, remained absent. So, I quickly made for the beach with my board tucked under my arm.
What followed was a three-hour session in glassy, unspoiled conditions with all my friends from Beach Break. We took turns trading wave after wave. Finally, most of the group tired and returned to shore. I, however, chose to stay out until low tide, savoring every last wave, every last workable section, and every last moment I had in the water.
The next morning (My last in Venao), the conditions were once again superb. The sun was shining, the wind offshore, and the waves filled in at just the right size. I surfed until I couldn’t’ possibly surf anymore. And then after a short rest, I did it again, and again. A welcomed send off from the Pacific Ocean.
There’s no telling what my last night with entail. All I know is that it will be full of laughs, beers, goodbyes to my new friends in Playa Venao.
On the run with Morgan 